Classic Red Skirt Suit



A red skirt suit is a staple in any wardrobe. OK, maybe not. But I had the yarn and wanted a skirt outfit.

I created this set from scratch, based on a few design elements I wanted to incorporate in a skirt suit: 1) contrasting borders and big buttons, 2) 3/4 sleeves, and 3) a short pencil skirt. I like 3/4 sleeves because they are feminine and the minimalist skirt is flattering on a petite frame. The skirt pattern is real simple and the length entirely up to you.

I had originally intended to wear the suit on its own, with just a tank-top underneath, but when it got colder, I couldn't resist dressing it in different ways. It turns out that it works well layered over things, such as a warm turtle neck. Now this little suit takes me from October to March. With some knee-highs, the look even turns a little trendy.

And to give more mileage to any suit, it's nice to wear as separates (though always wash as a unit so both pieces age together). By the way, I recommend having at least one classic black skirt that fits nicely to wear with pretty much anything. It doesn't have to be fancy. I own 2. The one below is what I call my 12/12 skirt (girl size 12, $12). Make that 10/12. Little girls are getting bigger and curvier.

The following makes a size 0P suit. I should warn that the sleeves are rather fitted as I meant to wear the top with a tank top underneath. In a next post, I will try to provide some tips on how to adapt the pattern to your size/preferences. If you are an experienced knitter and you decide to adapt and knit this suit or parts of it, please share your ideas and thoughts.

Now for the pattern:
Yarn: sports weight in two contrasting colors. One for the main body, one for the border. I chose red as the main color, and black for the border. The black border makes it easy to coordinate.

Knitting needles: Size 5 (3.5 mm), Size 4 (3 mm), a size 5 circular needle.

Other supplies: 3 large buttons, a half inch wide elastic band, long enough to go around the waist.

Gauge: 20 st = 10 cm, 26 rows = 10 cm

Instructions

Back of top

With the black yarn and the size 5 needles, CO 68 sts. Work in seed st for 1". Change to the red yarn and work in st stitch. Decrease 1 st on each side every 8 rows 3 times. Work even until piece measures 6.5" since you started with the red yarn. 62 sts.

Increase 1 st on each side very 4 rows 6 times. 74 sts. Work even until piece measures 11" from when you started with the main red yarn.

Shape armholes. BO 3sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 1 st each side next RS row. Work even until armhole measures 5.5".

Shape shoulders and neck. On next RS row, BO loosely center 30 sts. That is K16, BO 30, K16. Join a second ball of yarn, to work both shoulders at once. Decrease 1 st on each side of neck edge, on RS, twice. When armhole measures 7", decrease at each shoulder side: 4 st, 5 st, 5 st.

Left Front

With black yarn and size 5 needles, CO 32 sts, work in seed st for 1". Change to the red yarn and work in st st, following waist and arm shaping of back on left side until armhole measures 4". End on RS.

Shape neck. On neck side, BO 4 st, 3 st, 2 st three times, then 1 st every other row twice.

When armhole measures 7", decrease for shoulder every other row 4 st, 5 st, 5 st.

Right Front

Work as a mirror image of the left front.

Sleeves

With black yarn and size 5 needles, CO 40 sts. Work in seed st for 1.25". Change to red yarn and work in st st, increasing 1 st each side very 10 rows 6 times. Work even until sleeve measures 10" from black seed stitch border. End on WS (52 st).

Shape cap. BO 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows, then 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st each side on next row, then every other row once more. BO 2 sts at beg of next 10 rows. BO remaining 10 sts.

Finishing

Block pieces. Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sides and sleeve seams.

Pick up 90 sts around the neck line with size 5 needles. Work back and forth in seed stitch for 2 rows. Switch to smaller needles, work until neck band is 1.5" wide.

With size 5 needles, pick up a stitch every other row on the left side (64 st). Work in seed stitch for 1.5". BO loosely.

With size 5 needles, pick up a stitch every other row on the right side (64 st). Work 4 rows in seed sts.

Start button holes.
If on WS: 14 sts, BO 2, 6 sts, BO 2, 6 sts, BO 2, 40 sts.
If on RS: 40 st, BO 2, 6 sts, BO 2, 6 sts, BO 2, 14 sts.

In the next row, CO 2 sts and join to bridge over each button hole.

Work 3 more rows in seed st. BO loosely.

Sew 3 buttons in place.

Skirt

The skirt is worked in the round. I am a good knitter, but a poor seamstress so I like to do away with seams whenever possible. The folded top at the waist is made sharp with a purl row.

Using the circular needle and with the red yarn, CO 128 stitches. Join,  and place marker at beginning of round. Knit 6 rounds, purl 1 round, and knit 6 more rounds.

Next round; K 64, place marker, K 64. Now you have 2 markers that mark the side "seams" of the skirt.

Start increasing for the hips.

Increase round: K2, m1, K to 2 sts before marker, m1, K4, m1, k to 2 sts before beg of round marker, m1, K2. 4 sts increased. Work one round. Repeat these two round (one increase, one plain) twice more (140 sts).

K two rounds then work one more increase round (144 sts).

Continue until skirt has the desired length minus an inch and a half.

Switch to black yarn and work 1.5" in seed stitch for the border. BO loosely.

Finishing of the skirt

Cut the desired length for the elastic band. It should fit snug around your waist when slightly stretched. Fold the top over at the purl row and set in the elastic band. Sew the hem at the top of the skirt, setting in the elastic band as you go. Right before closing the waist, sew the elastic band into a loop taking care not to twist. Finish the waist hem.



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