Imitation Tweed Dress - Building the pattern V
Today we start putting together the pattern for the front panel of the imitation tweed dress. You need:
See the first post on this topic.
The main differences between the front panel and the back panel are:
For the front, we cast on the same number of stitches we did at the hem for the back panel. And then do the ribbed edge, and work straight until the work measures V9 from the bottom.
Going back to the post where we were starting on the back, for me, that would be:
Cast on 80 stitches, work 6 rows in 2 x 2 ribbing, then continue straight until work is 38 cm long.
Then we decrease at the hips, same way we did in the back in step 4 (see link above). For my dress, that turned out to be:
Decrease one stitch on each side every wrong side row (knit row), 7 times.
Next is the styling for the waist band, where we follow the same instructions as before.
The chest shaping is done in two stages. First, we increase stitches on each side until the width of the work corresponds to measurement H11. Second, we make darts to go from H11 (below chest measurement) to H12 (largest of the chest measurement), effectively shaping cups.
For me, H11 was the same (to a close approximation) to H4 (the width at the waistband), so I skipped that step. If for you H11 is more than H4 do the following.
Count how many stitches you have on the needle after the waist band shaping. Next use your gauge to translate H11 into a number of stitches. Say you have 66 stitches on the needles and must increase to 70 stitches. Then you would have to increase 1/2 x (70-66) = 2 stitches on each side. Over how many rows?
To figure that out, translate V11 into a row count using your gauge. Work out RS row increases accordingly.
Hold the knitting against you with the knitting needle(s) right below your chest and the work hanging down. Stretch it so that its sides line up with your sides. Identify where the middle of each breast is and place markers at those locations.
Count how many stitches you have on the needles. By that stage, I had 66. Then translate your H12 measurement to a stitch count. For me: H12 = 37 cm. With 20 stitches to 10 cm, that worked out to be 74 stitches. That meant increasing 74-66 = 8 stitches. We increase 2 stitches on each increase row, so that means 4 increase rows. Again, over how many rows?
For me, V11 - V6 = 4 cm. I had to do my 4 increase rows over 4 cm. With a gauge of 26 rows to 10 cm, 4 cm works out to be about 10 rows. 10 does not divide neatly by 4, but what works is 2 + 2 + 2 + 4 (we need even numbers). In other words, work 3 increase rows on every knit row, then work the next knit row without increasing, increase on the next knit row.
Each increase row is worked the following way:
K to marker, work a left leaning increase, K past 2nd marker, work left leaning increase, K to end.
Work even until the work has a height of H11 from the top of the waist band.
Next time, sleeve holes and neckline.
- The schematic
- Your measurements
See the first post on this topic.
The main differences between the front panel and the back panel are:
- There is no increase for the behind so we work straight from the hem up to the hips
- There is shaping for the chest
- The neckline is lower and rounder.
For the front, we cast on the same number of stitches we did at the hem for the back panel. And then do the ribbed edge, and work straight until the work measures V9 from the bottom.
Going back to the post where we were starting on the back, for me, that would be:
Cast on 80 stitches, work 6 rows in 2 x 2 ribbing, then continue straight until work is 38 cm long.
Then we decrease at the hips, same way we did in the back in step 4 (see link above). For my dress, that turned out to be:
Decrease one stitch on each side every wrong side row (knit row), 7 times.
Next is the styling for the waist band, where we follow the same instructions as before.
Chest shaping
The chest shaping is done in two stages. First, we increase stitches on each side until the width of the work corresponds to measurement H11. Second, we make darts to go from H11 (below chest measurement) to H12 (largest of the chest measurement), effectively shaping cups.
1. Side increases
For me, H11 was the same (to a close approximation) to H4 (the width at the waistband), so I skipped that step. If for you H11 is more than H4 do the following.
Count how many stitches you have on the needle after the waist band shaping. Next use your gauge to translate H11 into a number of stitches. Say you have 66 stitches on the needles and must increase to 70 stitches. Then you would have to increase 1/2 x (70-66) = 2 stitches on each side. Over how many rows?
To figure that out, translate V11 into a row count using your gauge. Work out RS row increases accordingly.
2. Shaping the cups
Hold the knitting against you with the knitting needle(s) right below your chest and the work hanging down. Stretch it so that its sides line up with your sides. Identify where the middle of each breast is and place markers at those locations.
Count how many stitches you have on the needles. By that stage, I had 66. Then translate your H12 measurement to a stitch count. For me: H12 = 37 cm. With 20 stitches to 10 cm, that worked out to be 74 stitches. That meant increasing 74-66 = 8 stitches. We increase 2 stitches on each increase row, so that means 4 increase rows. Again, over how many rows?
For me, V11 - V6 = 4 cm. I had to do my 4 increase rows over 4 cm. With a gauge of 26 rows to 10 cm, 4 cm works out to be about 10 rows. 10 does not divide neatly by 4, but what works is 2 + 2 + 2 + 4 (we need even numbers). In other words, work 3 increase rows on every knit row, then work the next knit row without increasing, increase on the next knit row.
Each increase row is worked the following way:
K to marker, work a left leaning increase, K past 2nd marker, work left leaning increase, K to end.
Work even until the work has a height of H11 from the top of the waist band.
Next time, sleeve holes and neckline.
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