Winter pencil skirt with contrasting ruffle embellishment

Genesis of the pattern

For several years, in our word processing office by the photocopier, there hung a boa scarf in warm autumn shades, made from some of that magic ruffle yarn. I finally worked up the courage to ask the administrative assistant whether she still wanted that scarf. She stated that it wasn't hers and that I could take it. I washed the scarf, unraveled it and rolled it up into a ball of yarn, very happy about my acquisition and day dreaming about what I would do with it.

And then in my archive of patterns on my hard drive, which I regularly sift through, there was this Italian pattern for a summer skirt and top set:

An idea was born. I went shopping for plain yarn that would complement the ruffle yarn (actually enough to make both a top and a bottom, though I still have to give more thought to the top). Since I don't live in Italy, I made a warm skirt instead, with medium weight (4) soft acrylic yarn.

Pattern

The original skirt consists of three panels, one for the back, and two for the front, joined together by lacing up. I kept a similar idea, except there is only one front panel, with a ladder that goes diagonally down. The ruffle yarn is attached to that ladder using a crochet hook. Above the knee, the panel does split into two parts worked independently. 

Front panel. Worked in one piece with a ladder diagonally down, and a split at the bottom

Yarn: Size 4 (medium weight), cream acrylic (used Big Twist Value yarn)

Gauge: 14.5 stitches x 20 rows make 10 cm x 10 cm square in stockinette

Size of finished skirt: 00P

Back panel

Before you begin, see my post on some key techniques for clean ways of working increases and decreases, and on creating a neat row of stitches along the sides of a knitted panel. They make the difference between budget and designer look.

Cast on 50 stitches and work 8 rows in 1/1 ribbing, then start stockinette.

Increase 4 stitches evenly spaced on next right side row (54 stitches).

For the hips, increase 1 stitch on each side twice every other row, then three times every 4th row. Work all increases on a right side row.

As you continue, shape the sides slightly by decreasing 1 stitch on each side very 30 rows. Stop decreasing when you reach above the knee length.

Keep working until the skirt reaches the desired length.

Plan the placement of the ruffle yarn

Block the back panel and use it as a template to place the ladder stitches of the front panel. Thread or crochet a contrasting waste yarn in the shape of what you want the front ruffles to do. Use a graceful curve.

The back panel, with waste yarn threaded through, to use a template for the placement of the ladder on the front panel

Front panel

Start like the back: Cast on 50 stitches and work 8 rows in 1/1 ribbing, then start stockinette.

Increase 4 stitches evenly spaced on next right side row (54 stitches).

Also do the side shaping exactly the same as the back. The only difference is that you need to work a ladder stitch and the slit at the bottom.

As you knit the panel, lay it on top of the back panel with the contrasting yarn and use the yarn as a guide to place ladder stitches.

Ladder stitch (worked on two rows)

RS: K2tog, yarn over twice, SSK

WS: P, P, K, P

When you reach the desired length for the slit (above the knee), work sides on either side of the last ladder stitch independently. At that point, you are not doing any more increases or decreases, just work two separate rectangles down to the desired length

Finishing

Block the front panel and if needed, iron the back panel again. Sew the sides of the skirts together. Starting on the bottom left side of the slit (skirt facing you), with a crochet hook, work a round of SC, chain 3, SC, skipping every other stitch on the bottom and slit edges of the skirt. Work a second round of SC, chain 5, SC, where the single crochets are worked in the chain 3 loops of the previous round. Tuck in all yarn ends.

Now we get to the ruffle yarn! With a crochet hook, chain the ruffle yarn down the front of the skirt, intertwining it with the ladder stitches. Tuck in both ends and fasten to the inside of the skirt with a few stitches.

With the yarn used to make the skirt, crochet a chain long enough that it goes around your waist and can be tied into a knot. Thread that chain through the ribbing at the waist of the skirt, starting on the right side of the skirt (so you can tie it on the side).

Give the skirt bottom a final pull and press to bring out the crocheted edges.

To wear the skirt, pull it on and tighten it at the waist using the chain string you made and threaded through.