Classic V-neck sweater
I had just enough yarn left from my fall colors skirt set to make a sweater. After all that fanciness, I felt like making something plain. A classic V-neck sweater.
It is essentially the pattern for the short sleeve blue top I made for my mom some years ago, resized and with long sleeves. Since I was using the same yarn and needles, I was able to piggy-back on the pattern for the top of the skirt set mentioned above. I made the sweater a little larger because it doesn't have an open front.
Gauge
12.5 st x 20 rows = 10 x 10 cm squared
Back
Cast on 56 stitches. Work 5 rows in 1/1 ribbing then switch to stockinette. Decrease one stitch on each side every 4th row, 4 times (48 stitches). Continue until 12 cm from CO edge, then increase one stitch on each side every RS row for the chest, 6 times (60 stitches). Work even until 36 cm from the beginning then shape the arm holes.
Decrease 2 stitches on each side twice, then one more stitch on each side on next RS row, (50 stitches left). For clean 1 stitch decreases see my post on techniques. Work even until armhole measures 20 cm then decrease for shoulders, 3 stitches on each side every RS row, 4 times. Place remaining 26 stitches on a stitch holder to be picked up later.
Front
Work just like the back, until you you get to the arm holes. At that point, you need to start working the V-neck. Work both sides concurrently. Decrease 1 stitch on the neck side every 2nd and 4th row 6 times, then continue decreasing every 4th row until there are 12 stitches left on each side, matching the shoulder decreases in the back. In addition to clean decreases, also follow the rule of slipping the first stitch whenever you start a new row, for clean edges. On RS rows, slip the stitch as if to knit, on WS rows, slip the stitch as if to purl (for more on that, see technique #2).
Sleeves
CO 30 stitches. Increase on each side 1 stitch every 8 rows until the sleeve is long enough to reach from where you want it on the wrist to where it attaches to the underarm. Then shape sleeve cap: decrease 1 stitch on each side every other row 6 times (26 stitches). Work 8 rows even then do the final decreases, 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. BO the remaining 14 stitches.
Finishing
Block all pieces. Sew shoulder seams and finish the neckline. Using circular needles (you will be working in the round), pick up the live stitches left on stitch holder in the back of the sweater and pick up stitches all around neck line. At the center front, you will need to create a center stitch at the point of the V-neck. Work in 1/1 ribbing for desired length, shaping the point of the V-neck using the technique described at the end of this post (also see picture at the end of the post).
Set in the sleeves and sew shoulder seams. Sew the sleeves and the sides of the sweater. Done!
It is essentially the pattern for the short sleeve blue top I made for my mom some years ago, resized and with long sleeves. Since I was using the same yarn and needles, I was able to piggy-back on the pattern for the top of the skirt set mentioned above. I made the sweater a little larger because it doesn't have an open front.
Pattern, for a size 00P
5 mm needles, sport weight yarnGauge
12.5 st x 20 rows = 10 x 10 cm squared
Back
Cast on 56 stitches. Work 5 rows in 1/1 ribbing then switch to stockinette. Decrease one stitch on each side every 4th row, 4 times (48 stitches). Continue until 12 cm from CO edge, then increase one stitch on each side every RS row for the chest, 6 times (60 stitches). Work even until 36 cm from the beginning then shape the arm holes.
Decrease 2 stitches on each side twice, then one more stitch on each side on next RS row, (50 stitches left). For clean 1 stitch decreases see my post on techniques. Work even until armhole measures 20 cm then decrease for shoulders, 3 stitches on each side every RS row, 4 times. Place remaining 26 stitches on a stitch holder to be picked up later.
Front
Work just like the back, until you you get to the arm holes. At that point, you need to start working the V-neck. Work both sides concurrently. Decrease 1 stitch on the neck side every 2nd and 4th row 6 times, then continue decreasing every 4th row until there are 12 stitches left on each side, matching the shoulder decreases in the back. In addition to clean decreases, also follow the rule of slipping the first stitch whenever you start a new row, for clean edges. On RS rows, slip the stitch as if to knit, on WS rows, slip the stitch as if to purl (for more on that, see technique #2).
Sleeves
CO 30 stitches. Increase on each side 1 stitch every 8 rows until the sleeve is long enough to reach from where you want it on the wrist to where it attaches to the underarm. Then shape sleeve cap: decrease 1 stitch on each side every other row 6 times (26 stitches). Work 8 rows even then do the final decreases, 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. BO the remaining 14 stitches.
Finishing
Block all pieces. Sew shoulder seams and finish the neckline. Using circular needles (you will be working in the round), pick up the live stitches left on stitch holder in the back of the sweater and pick up stitches all around neck line. At the center front, you will need to create a center stitch at the point of the V-neck. Work in 1/1 ribbing for desired length, shaping the point of the V-neck using the technique described at the end of this post (also see picture at the end of the post).
Set in the sleeves and sew shoulder seams. Sew the sleeves and the sides of the sweater. Done!
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