Teal blazer III - pattern drafting - back panel from waist to top
We are at the waist, with 54 stitches on the needles. For the pattern setup (including the gauge and measurements used here) and the first part of the pattern, look under the label "teal blazer".
Our goal is to get to the underarm. This is a simple increase to do on each side (no more darts). The chest measurement is 40 cm. Considering my gauge of 16 stitches for 10 cm, simple math tells us that by the time I get to the underarm, I need to have 64 stitches on the needles.
On the other hand, we also need to consider the fact that later, across the shoulders, we'll need to go down to 16st/10cm*36cm = 58 stitches. This means at the underarm, decrease (64 - 58)/2 = 6/2 = 3 stitches. This is not enough to go from center of underarm to sleeve seam. 5 stitches worked better for me, but at this stage you have to see how many cm of underarm you need.
And so our goal is to go from 54 to 68 stitches in 16 cm (from waist to underarm), which works out to be 22rows/10cm*16cm = 36 rows. We need to add 14 stitches, which means 7 increase rows (increase 1 on each side so 2 stitches added per increase row). A nice multiple of 7 that's close to 36 is 35. And 35/7 is 5. We need to do our increases every even number of rows because they all need to be on the RS. So we work increases every 6 and 4 rows, until we have 68 stitches on the needles.
A note on increase rows. Work them the following way, for a neat finish:
K2, left leaning increase, K until there are 2 stitches left, right leaning increase, K2.
That brings us to the underarm. Now we need to round the bend and decrease to the 58 stitches across the shoulders. We rigged this so it would be 5 stitches on each side. Bind off 2 stitches on each side once, then work 3 decrease rows on subsequent RS until there are 58 stitches left on the needles.
Work even until you reach the shoulders. Here we need to bind off along the shoulder seams. Here we need one more measurement that we haven't made. Find a sweater that is fitted the way you want it and measure the length of the shoulder seam. Using your gauge, transfer that into a number of stitches to bind off at each shoulder. For me, that measurement was 7cm. 16st/10cm*7cm = 11 stitches. Not a nicely divisible number, so I used 12. You want something that is divisible by 3 or 4 (if you have wider shoulders).
Bind off 4 stitches on each side, on all subsequent start of rows (whether they are RS or WS). On WS, bind off purlwise. Leave the rest of the stitches on a stitch holder. In my case, that left 34 stitches.
Our goal is to get to the underarm. This is a simple increase to do on each side (no more darts). The chest measurement is 40 cm. Considering my gauge of 16 stitches for 10 cm, simple math tells us that by the time I get to the underarm, I need to have 64 stitches on the needles.
On the other hand, we also need to consider the fact that later, across the shoulders, we'll need to go down to 16st/10cm*36cm = 58 stitches. This means at the underarm, decrease (64 - 58)/2 = 6/2 = 3 stitches. This is not enough to go from center of underarm to sleeve seam. 5 stitches worked better for me, but at this stage you have to see how many cm of underarm you need.
And so our goal is to go from 54 to 68 stitches in 16 cm (from waist to underarm), which works out to be 22rows/10cm*16cm = 36 rows. We need to add 14 stitches, which means 7 increase rows (increase 1 on each side so 2 stitches added per increase row). A nice multiple of 7 that's close to 36 is 35. And 35/7 is 5. We need to do our increases every even number of rows because they all need to be on the RS. So we work increases every 6 and 4 rows, until we have 68 stitches on the needles.
A note on increase rows. Work them the following way, for a neat finish:
K2, left leaning increase, K until there are 2 stitches left, right leaning increase, K2.
That brings us to the underarm. Now we need to round the bend and decrease to the 58 stitches across the shoulders. We rigged this so it would be 5 stitches on each side. Bind off 2 stitches on each side once, then work 3 decrease rows on subsequent RS until there are 58 stitches left on the needles.
Work even until you reach the shoulders. Here we need to bind off along the shoulder seams. Here we need one more measurement that we haven't made. Find a sweater that is fitted the way you want it and measure the length of the shoulder seam. Using your gauge, transfer that into a number of stitches to bind off at each shoulder. For me, that measurement was 7cm. 16st/10cm*7cm = 11 stitches. Not a nicely divisible number, so I used 12. You want something that is divisible by 3 or 4 (if you have wider shoulders).
Bind off 4 stitches on each side, on all subsequent start of rows (whether they are RS or WS). On WS, bind off purlwise. Leave the rest of the stitches on a stitch holder. In my case, that left 34 stitches.
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| The completed back of the blazer |
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