Teal blazer XI - Lining: back pleat and side seams

I have an extra day in my week-end for Labor Day and I decided to do it. Start on the lining of the teal blazer, that is. This is unknown territory for me, so we'll see how it goes. I am following instructions from the Reader's Digest's New Complete Guide to Sewing.

The first step according to the book is to cut the pieces using the pattern paper of the original garment. My original garment is knitted so such pattern paper does not exist. All I did was cut pieces out of the lining fabric following the outline of the pieces of the blazer before assembly, including generous seam allowances. Better leave extra fabric to cut later on than not have enough.

First turn the finished blazer inside out and lay it flat, back facing up. Next take the back piece of the lining (which remember is 3 to 4 inches wider than the intended size) and lie it flat on top of the blazer. You want the shiny side to face up. Align it carefully, matching at the center of the neckline, and at the armholes.

Once it's centered, being careful not to move it, fold it in half (not moving is important for the next step).

Next place a pin attaching the two halves of the lining together (do not pin into the blazer itself, you want to be able to lift the lining off the blazer in the end). Place the pin at the middle of the neckline, looking at the neckline of the blazer. 

Now open up the lining piece and place a few pins to secure the fold in place. Again, nothing into the blazer. At this point, it's a good idea to check that the back piece as folded lines up well with the back of the blazer. Especially watch the seam allowances. Adjust the center fold if needed.

Take this to the ironing table and press the fold. Then secure the fold in two places using large cross stitches. Secure near the neck line (not too near, the crosses should be at least half an inch below the top hem). The cross stitching acts as securing and also as embellishment, so you want the crosses on the shiny side of the lining.

Cross stitches near the neckline and at the waist

Close up of cross stitching. For some reason, my camera randomly switched to black and white.

That finishes the prep work on the back piece. Lay the back piece flat with the shiny side facing up. Take one of the front pieces and line it up such that the curvature at the waist corresponds. In my case, the armholes were not cut very precisely so I kind of ignored that. What matters is that it is extra fabric to cut off later, and not the opposite problem.

Pin in place and sew up the seams up to the armhole. Repeat on the other side. Finish the seams. This is a good time to do a fitting. Pin the shoulders together and put on to check the fit. Wear the blazer on top just to get an idea of how this will look and feel when all is done. That's it for today.