Teal blazer V - pattern drafting - Sleeves

Sleeve cap shaping has always been somewhat of a mystery to me. Most end up not quite working out, with either the sleeve cap puckering when set in, or the arm hole being pulled tight around the sleeve cap. On this one, I decided to try something different and shape the sleeve caps based on direct measurements.

But before we get to shaping the sleeve cap, we begin with the straight part of the sleeve. That one is easy. Find a garment that has the amount of ease you desire in the sleeves, and take a couple measurements:

1) around the wrist

2) around the bicep, horizontally, at the level of the armpits

3) the distance from the wrist to the underarm. Take this measurement along your arm, arm slightly bent. Or again, use a garment that has the sleeves you want to reproduce (in that case measure along the under seam of the sleeve from wrist to underarm).

Your sleeve will start with the width required to wrap around the wrist and end with the width required to go around the bicep. Then we will shape the cap.

Example math (my case)

Gauge: 16 st x 22 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Wrist circumference = 20 cm --> 32 stitches

Bicep circumference = 24 cm --> 24/10 * 16 st = 39 stitches. Make that an even 40.

Length = 44 cm --> 44/10 * 22 rows = 98 rows

I need to increase 8 stitches, 4 on each side, over 98 rows. 98/4 = 24.5. Round down to an even 24. We want an even number because all increase rows happen on the RS. We round down because it is better to finish the increases early rather than getting to the end and still needing one increase.

Sleeve pattern so far

CO 32 stitches and work a hem as done for the back and front panels. Once the edge is done, start doing the increases (1 increase row on RS every 24 rows). When the sleeve reaches 44 cm in length, it's time to make the sleeve cap.

To shape the cap, try this. Pin the back and one front together to partly put together the garment. Fold the sleeve you have so far in half length wise and insert it into the armhole. Angle the sleeve the way you intend to. Here it's helpful to take a fitted garment and follow the angle of the sleeve. Mine looked like this: 

The unfinished sleeve fitted into the armhole at the desired angle

Pin the sleeve in place so it won't move then proceed to count stitches along the sleeve cap seam line to come up with a shape for your sleeve cap. Scan row by row on the sleeve and keep track of what is happening on the edge. Mine worked out to be the following:

Decrease 2 on each side once,

Then 1 on each side every RS row 3 times

1 on each side very other RS row 4 times

1 on each side very RS row 6 yimes

BO remaining 10 stitches.

One finished sleeve. The sleeve cap looks narrower than usual, but I tested the fit and it is perfect for my arms. Also, it sets in perfectly into the armhole!